The story
Chikankari is the white-on-white hand embroidery of Lucknow, linked in popular history to the Nawabi court. Traders in the old city's markets cut and block-print fabric, send it out to women embroiderers in Lucknow and surrounding villages, then wash, finish and sell the garments. Lucknow is also known for zardozi, the heavy metal-thread embroidery used on bridal and festive wear.
In numbers
There are an estimated 10 lakh people involved in the chikankari industry in Lucknow - from cutting and dyeing to block printing and stitching.
India Development Review: A social business model for Lucknow's chikankari artisans
GI tag
- Lucknow Chikan CraftApplication no. GI Application No. 119; Registration No. 102GI Registry, IP India - Application 119: Lucknow Chikan Craft
- Lucknow ZardoziApplication no. GI Application No. 236; Registration No. 192GI Registry, IP India - Application 236: Lucknow Zardozi
Ways in for a newcomer
- Own-label chikan wear sold online and in malls
- Block printing, washing and finishing as job work for traders
- Fair-wage embroidery groups linked directly to buyers
- Supplying fabric, threads and printing blocks
Problems the cluster faces
- Very low piece rates for women embroiderers
- Machine-made and imitation chikan sold as handmade
- Long chains of middlemen between artisan and buyer
- Eye strain and health issues from fine needlework
Businesses to start here
Chikankari Embroidery Unit →Zari and Silk Embroidery →Hand Block Printing Unit (Printed Suits) →Ladies Suit Stitching Unit →Computerised Embroidery (Job Work) →