The story
Kolkata's tanneries first clustered in Tangra and Topsia, run largely by Chinese-origin and local families. They were shifted to the planned Calcutta Leather Complex at Bantala, with a common effluent treatment plant, while thousands of small units in the city stitch bags, wallets and belts for export. Easy supply of hides, cheap skilled labour and the port made Kolkata India's main leather-goods export hub.
In numbers
West Bengal is the hub of leather goods exports from India, having about 50% share of total exports in this category.
Leather industry — Industry sectors, Government of West Bengal · 2016Out of 2,020 tanneries in India, West Bengal has about 538, which is 26.6% of the total.
Leather industry — Industry sectors, Government of West Bengal · 2016The broader leather cluster in and around Kolkata provides employment to approximately 5 lakh people.
From Terracotta to Textiles: GST Reforms to Empower Bengal's Industries (PIB factsheet) · 2025
Ways in for a newcomer
- Stitching job-work for exporters (bags, wallets, belts)
- Make small leather accessories for online sale
- Supply hardware, linings and packaging to leather-goods units
- Leather testing and compliance services (REACH, chrome)
Problems the cluster faces
- Effluent and chrome-waste rules for tanneries
- Compliance costs for European buyers
- Competition from Bangladesh, Vietnam and China
- Rising hide and chemical prices
Businesses to start here
Leather Bag Making →Leather Wallets and Purses →Leather Waist Belt Making →Industrial Leather Hand Gloves →Fancy Leather Gloves →Finished Shoe-Upper Leather Tannery →Leather Purse Making →